Learn to Sew Clothes for Beginners: A Comprehensive Guide

Tens of thousands of creative people want to learn to sew, but many never even get past their first project. It isn't a lack of information that holds them back; it's often knowing exactly what skills to start with. This article will guide you through the process of learning to sew independently, providing a simple framework to help you develop the necessary skills at your own pace and in your own home.

Why Learn to Sew?

There are numerous reasons why someone might want to learn to sew. Maybe you want to start sewing your own clothes to cut down on fast fashion consumption, or perhaps you want to express your creativity by making unique, personalized garments. You might have fond memories of a relative who sewed and want to carry on the tradition. Whatever your reason, learning to sew can be a fulfilling and rewarding experience.

Essential Equipment and Tools

Before you begin your sewing journey, you'll need to gather some essential equipment and tools.

Sewing Machine

A sewing machine is the most important tool for sewing clothes.

Beginner Sewing Machines: These machines, often found in the $100-$150 range, are designed for novices and are relatively inexpensive. They are suitable for basic sewing tasks and can help you get started without a significant investment.

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Computerized Sewing Machines: If you're replacing a beginner sewing machine or looking to invest in a more high-tech option, consider computerized sewing machines. These machines often have extra features that help make your stitches look professional and have become relatively affordable in recent years.

Specialty Sewing Machines: Depending on your projects, you may also look into a sewing machine with specialty settings, like quilting or embroidery. Quilting machines usually have a larger working area, allowing the fabric to keep flat while you sew.

Sewing Notions

When assembling your sewing toolkit, include a selection of sewing notions.

Sewing Machine Needles: Invest in various sewing machine needles suitable for different fabrics and project types. Universal needles are a good starting point. A variety pack of different sizes and types is handy. It will allow you to experiment with larger and smaller needles, or points of a different shape, as you troubleshoot sewing glitches.
Thread: Stock up on primary thread colors like black, white, and neutral shades, and match your thread to your fabric for a polished finish. The best choice for basic thread is a high-quality polyester all-purpose thread. The threads sold in fabric stores and in some big box retailers will work well in most machines and are great for beginners. There's no need to buy all the colors right away. Keep large spools of white, black, gray, and beige threads in your sewing kit.
Fabric Scissors: A sharp pair of fabric scissors is a must-have, and it's crucial to designate them solely for fabric cutting to maintain their sharpness. Choose a pair of bent-handle dressmaker's shears that are not too heavy but are sharp along the entire blade. It's also nice to have a small pair, about 4" blade length, for snipping thread tails and clipping seam allowances.
Pins and Pincushion: Pins and a pincushion are handy for holding fabric pieces together before sewing. Choose pins with large plastic or glass heads for visibility. (Don't iron over the plastic ones.) A length of about 1" to 1 1/4" is versatile.
Measuring Tape: A measuring tape ensures accurate measurements for your projects. Start with a tape measure and a 6" or 12" ruler marked in eighths of an inch.
Marking Tools: There are many, but a good start is a piece of white tailor's chalk (for marking dark fabrics) and a water-soluble fabric marker (usually blue; disappears with water).
Hand-Sewing Needles: You can do almost everything on today's machines, but there will be times when you'll need to hand stitch. A variety pack of sewing needles is the answer again; you'll be able to make choices and balance the size of the needle with the ease of getting through your fabric.
Iron and Ironing Board: Good pressing as you sew will make a huge difference in the appearance of your finished project. You don't have to buy an expensive iron, though; just look for one that will press both dry and with steam.

Sewing Space Organization

Like any other craft or hobby, sewing is easier when you have an organized and uncluttered space in which to do it.

Sewing Table and Cabinet: The first thing you should invest in when designing your dedicated sewing space is a sizeable sewing table and cabinet to hold your sewing machine and notions.
Fabric Organizer: Designate a space to hold your fabrics and patterns. A bin or basket can hold fabric scraps and fat quarters. For longer bolts of fabric, though, look into a dedicated fabric organizer.

Basic Sewing Skills

Before making the fancy garments and patterns you’ve been eyeing online, you must master the sewing basics.

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Threading a Sewing Machine

Before you can begin sewing, you must learn to thread your sewing machine correctly. Consult your sewing machine's manual for specific instructions, as different machines may have unique threading processes. Typically, this involves winding the bobbin, guiding the thread through various tension disks, and threading the needle.

Sewing Straight Seams

One of the fundamental skills in sewing is stitching straight seams. When you’re still learning how to work your sewing machine, practice sewing lines on scrap fabric. Start by aligning the fabric edge with your desired seam allowance. Lower the presser foot and guide the fabric through the machine with a steady hand while maintaining an even seam allowance. Practice makes perfect, so don't be discouraged if your first attempts aren't flawless. Machine beds often have guidelines to assist you in gauging your seam allowances. Start practicing straight seams, and graduate to curves.

Hand Stitching

While sewing machines are incredibly efficient, knowing how to hand stitch is a valuable skill. Hand stitching is ideal for intricate details, repairs, or when a sewing machine isn't suitable. Learn basic hand stitches like the running stitch, backstitch, and slip stitch.

Understanding Sewing Patterns

Sewing patterns are like roadmaps for your projects. They provide instructions on how to cut fabric and assemble pieces to create a finished garment or item. Start with simple patterns designed for beginners, and read through the instructions carefully before beginning. Pay attention to pattern markings, grainlines, and notches.

Hemming

Hemming is the finishing touch that gives your projects a polished appearance. To hem, fold the fabric edge over, encasing the raw edge, and then stitch it in place. Practice hemming on different fabric types to get a feel for how they behave.

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Choosing Fabric and Thread

There's no question-the simplest fabric for beginner sewers is a plain-weave cotton, like the solid fabrics quilters use. It allows you to concentrate on developing basic sewing skills without the need for fabric-wrangling tricks. That said, a confident beginner can handle other fabrics, too, such as T-shirt jersey or denim.

If you can shop in person, be sure to touch and handle the fabric you're considering. You'll also want to consider the project. If you're making a skirt you plan to wear often, choose something durable and washable. Pre-wash the fabric: Launder it before cutting out the pattern pieces to eliminate shrinkage and most color bleeding. If you're making home décor, such as a pillow, aim for durability. You probably won't be washing the pillow regularly, so laundry instructions aren't as important.

When it comes to fabric, consider woven fabrics like linen or cotton, as they are easier to sew with. They don’t have a lot of stretch and won’t slip around as much while you’re sewing them, so they’re great for a beginner. Especially when it comes to clothing, sewing a more loose, flowy linen garment is a lot easier than trying to put together a tailored piece like a pair of denim or a structured, button-up blouse.

Simple Beginner Projects

Here are a few simple projects perfect for beginners:

Pillowcase: In a first beginner sewing class students will learn how to thread a sewing machine, wind a bobbin, sew a straight stitch and pivot a corner to construct a pillow case together.
Comfy Pajama Shorts: These shorts are a great introduction to sewing garments.
Simple Tote Bag: Who couldn’t use another tote bag?
Embroidery Hoop Organizer: Sew something to make your sewing easier! This embroidery hoop organizer is perfect for when you have a lot of little scraps of fabric to use up.

Tips and Tricks for Successful Sewing

Measure Yourself Frequently: Our bodies are constantly changing so it’s best to measure yourself frequently, especially before selecting a specific pattern size to make. Use a measuring tape to measure the fullest part of your bust, your natural waist (found easiest when you bend to the side), and the fullest part of your hips. It’s best to do this in your underwear or while you’re wearing yoga tights.
Choose Indie Pattern Designers: Many patterns are available pre-printed. But if you’re terribly impatient and also want to save a couple bucks, opt to purchase the digital pattern. If you receive a PDF that contains the pattern and the sewing instructions.
Print Patterns Correctly: Make sure your printer is set to print at 100%. Printing at a larger (or smaller) scale will produce iffy results. Do a test print and only printing the first page of the pattern. Then use your ruler to measure the test square on the page. Double check that this is the same exact measurements as shown. Trim the bottom and right side of each page. Use a paper trimmer to trim the margin off the bottom and right side of every single pattern page. Once all the pages are trimmed, use clear tape to tape them together, matching the letters/numbers on each side.
Identify Your Size: Each size on a pattern is identified using a specific series of dots and dashes. This can vary between patterns so it’s best to reference the key on each pattern before cutting.
Cut Patterns Carefully: Use your orange handled-scissors (the pair you only use for cutting paper) to cut out the pattern. You might not need every single pattern piece for the garment you’re making. If you’re skipping the front patch pocket, you don’t need to cut out that piece.
Check Fabric Suggestions: If you’re unsure about what type of fabric to buy, check out the list of suggested fabric types on the pattern you’re going to use. This is a great place to start! Most fabric comes in 2 widths, 45″ and 60″. Often the patterned cotton fabric you find a quilt shop is 45″ wide and apparel fabric is 60″ wide.
Pre-Wash Fabric: This step cannot be skipped! You’ll want to wash and dry your fabric before cutting or sewing it. The reason? Fabric can shrink in the washer/dryer and sewing is an investment. You don’t want your garment to be unwearable after the first washing so this step is so integral to the sewing process. You’ll want to launder your fabric however you plan on washing the finished top/dress.
Lay Out Fabric Correctly: Once you’ve cut out your paper pattern, then you’ll want to lay out your fabric according to the directions. Often this is with right, or outside, sides together and with the selvedges aligned. The selvedge is simply finished sides of the fabric that don’t unravel or fray. You can place the fabric on a large table (like your dining room table) or the floor, as you often do. Then place the pattern on top of the fabric.
Use Pattern Weights: Use pattern weights, metal washers, or anything heavy to hold your pattern in place.
Trace and Mark Fabric: Use chalk to carefully trace along the edges of the pattern. You’ll also want to mark all the notches, the tiny perpendicular lines that appear somewhat sporadically around the pattern. These will be helpful for lining up pieces as you sew.
Cut Fabric Accurately: Use your orange handled-scissors that you use for fabric to cut out the fabric along the lines you just drew. A sewing instructor once told to always cut your fabric with the palm of your hand facing towards the inside of the pattern piece. This seemingly unimportant tip actually helps get the most accurate cut since your hand isn’t blocking the chalk markings.
Test Stitches: Before sewing the first step, take a scrap piece of fabric (the same fabric as your dress or shirt) and run it through your sewing machine to sew a row of test stitches. If everything looks good, then start with the first step.
Press Seams: Throughout the pattern, you will notice the instructions state to press seams pretty frequently. This step seems superfluous but it’s really necessary. Pressing seams will not only help the fabric regain its shape after stitching, it will also produce a more professional looking garment. After sewing a seam, take it to the ironing board and press by lifting and replacing the iron along the seam; don't slide the iron. Seam allowances are usually pressed open in garment sewing.
Mark Seam Allowance: Usually at the beginning to a pattern, it will state what the seam allowance is. This is simply how away from the edge of the fabric you will sew. It’s 5/8″ for most garments, but sometimes it will change depending on the step. Place a piece of washi tape directly on your sewing machine to mark the seam allowance.
Finish Seams: Woven fabrics, like the ones used for this pattern, will fray if the cut edges aren’t “finished.” You can use a wide zig-zag stitch along the raw edges of fabric to prevent it from fraying. Some sewing machines also have an overlock stitch that uses an overlock foot.
Use Fusible Interfacing: This pattern, and most garments, require the use of fusible interfacing. This helps reinforce the structure of the garment and help things like facings lie flat. Often pattern pieces will say “cut 1 on interfacing, cut 1 on fabric”. Rather than cutting them out separately, fuse, or iron, the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, trace the pattern, and then cut it out together.
Read the Manual: When you've chosen a beginner sewing machine, be sure to read the manual carefully. When you've selected a pattern, read through all of the instructions. If the information seems overwhelming, simply take it one step at a time and start with the overview, which will help you understand the patternmaker's instructional style.
Master Seam Allowances: When it comes to mastering seam allowances, practice sewing an even distance from the edge of your fabric. Patterns may have 5/8", 1/2", 3/8", or 1/4" seam allowances, but it's always important to sew at a consistent seam allowance width so that the project finishes at the right size.
Let the Machine Do Its Job: When you’re learning how to sew, try to let your machine do its job. Don't push or pull fabric under the needle; just guide it along and watch the needle magic happen. And don’t be afraid to experiment with your machine.

Additional Resources

Books:
- The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing: This book is updated yearly with new information, tips, and tricks.
- S.E.W. Sew Everything Workshop by Diana Rupp: Diana Rupp’s clever and captivating writing makes this book as fun as it is informative.
- The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting: When you start making garments, it’s essential that you understand how to measure and fit clothes effectively.
- Ahead of the Curve by Jenny Rushmore: Jenny Rushmore, founder of Cashmerette, has dedicated herself to making sewing more accessible to curvy and plus-sized people.
- Bend the Rules Sewing: Like any good craft, sewing has rules you must follow and some rules you can bend for better results. This book talks about the latter.
Online Resources:
- YouTube Tutorials: Find a wealth of tutorials on YouTube for specific techniques you may be struggling to master. A couple that are liked on YouTube are Stitch Collective and The Fold Line.
- The Sewing Subreddit: This forum, known as a “subreddit,” is a great place to convene with other sewists, ask questions, and get inspiration.
- The Curvy Sewing Collective: If you’re a plus-sized or curvy sewist, you know the unique challenges of finding patterns that fit.
- Sew It! Academy: This site offers a multitude of sewing courses aimed at sewists of all skill levels.
- Skillshare: Experts produce high-quality videos on any topic they know a lot about.
- Free patterns at Fabrics-Store.com: They have so many great, quality patterns that are beginner-friendly, so you don’t have to invest a lot of money upfront to practice. They also have a great glossary of sewing skills and techniques on their blog, The Thread.

Finding Classes and Community

As you begin to master the beginner skills and start to want more personalized instruction, you may look into sewing classes. To find in-person classes in your area, visit local fabric and craft stores and ask about their offerings.

You can also find a built-in community of sewists around you at all skill levels.

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