The University District: A History of Transformation and Resilience in Seattle
The University District, or U District as it's commonly known, is a vibrant and historically rich area in northeastern Seattle, Washington. Home to the University of Washington's main campus, the U District has evolved from a Duwamish settlement to a bustling urban center, reflecting Seattle's dynamic growth and cultural shifts.
Early History and Settlement
Before European settlement, the area was inhabited by the Duwamish people, who had villages and trails throughout the region. One such village, wəq̓iq̓əb, meaning "place of frogs", was located on Portage Bay. The Duwamish utilized the land for hunting, gathering, and cultivating crops, managing the landscape through controlled burns to promote the growth of berries and attract game.
In 1855, the U District was surveyed by the territorial government, marking the beginning of its transformation. Twelve years later, white settlers began to arrive, drawn by the area's natural resources and strategic location.
The Rise of Brooklyn and the University's Influence
In 1890, real estate developers, including James A. Moore, his wife, and the Clise Investment Company, established the Brooklyn Addition west of the present-day University of Washington campus. Despite being slower to develop compared to Ravenna and Latona due to its steeper slopes and distance from the central lakes, Brooklyn became a significant part of the U District.
The University of Washington's relocation to the area in 1895 marked a turning point in the district's history. The original name "Brooklyn" gradually faded as the university's presence grew, with local organizations adopting "University" in their names. The Latona post office moved to University Station in 1902, followed by the establishment of a public library three years later, solidifying the area's identity as the University District.
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Transportation and Infrastructure Development
The construction of the Lake Washington Ship Canal in the 1910s, including the Montlake Cut, further shaped the U District's landscape and accessibility. The University Bridge, opening on July 1, 1919, provided a crucial link over the canal, connecting the U District to Eastlake and facilitating transportation for automobiles and streetcars. To commemorate the bridge's opening, 14th Avenue, already known as "The Avenue" or "The Ave," was renamed University Way, cementing its status as the district's main thoroughfare.
Growth and Transformation in the Early to Mid-20th Century
The 1920s witnessed significant growth in the University District as the University of Washington underwent renovations led by architect Carl F. Gould. The university adopted the Collegiate Gothic style for its new buildings, influencing the architectural character of the surrounding neighborhood. Numerous residential and commercial buildings were constructed, including department stores, movie theaters, and the University Book Store, which opened in 1900 and has been in its current location since 1924, making it the oldest independent bookstore in Washington.
Following World War II, the University of Washington's enrollment surged, leading to the expansion of the campus beyond 15th Avenue Northeast. The South Campus expansion, completed in the 1960s, transformed industrial land along Portage Bay into university facilities.
The Ave: A Cultural and Commercial Hub
University Way NE, affectionately known as "The Ave," has long served as the U District's commercial and cultural heart. However, in recent decades, The Ave has faced challenges, including rising rents, the opening of malls and shopping centers like University Village, and an increase in street homelessness.
In the past, The Ave. boasted a bowling alley, a deli, a funeral parlor, an interior design store, Nordstrom, JC Penney, The Limited and Athlete’s Foot. But they are long gone, having bolted for places like Northgate Mall or University Village, driven out by sky-high leases, a flood of street people and lagging sales. Now the Ave. is dominated by fast-food joints, used book shops, penny stores, copy shops and the like. “Nice people are gone; it’s like a jungle on the Avenue,” says Warren Porter, owner of Porter-Jensen Jewelers, which has been at the corner of NE 45th Street and University Way NE for decades. “The whole feeling of the place has changed,” says Cal McCune, ’36, whose law firm has been a University District mainstay for the past 50 years, “but this place still has an awful lot to offer.
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Despite these challenges, The Ave retains its unique character, attracting students, residents, and visitors alike. Efforts to revitalize the area have included street improvements, new lighting, and community initiatives aimed at fostering a more welcoming and vibrant atmosphere.
Recent Developments and Future Directions
The U District has undergone significant changes in recent years, including the construction of two Link light rail stations: University of Washington Station (2016) and U District Station (2021). These stations have improved transportation connections to other parts of Seattle and beyond.
In 2017, zoning changes allowed for taller buildings in the area around the U District Station, leading to a surge in new development, particularly student housing. The U District is experiencing rapid growth on a variety of fronts. Representing some of Seattle’s most diverse zip codes, the U District also has a unique history, serving as north Seattle’s urban center and international melting pot for over 100 years. The U District sits directly adjacent to the University of Washington, one of the state’s largest economic engines-bringing nearly 80,000 people to the area on a given day.
The University District Partnership (UDP) plays a crucial role in shaping the U District's future. The U District Partnership serves businesses, organizations, residents, visitors, property owners, the university community, and those looking to invest in the U District. The U District Partnership is an independent 501(c)(3) that is also partially funded by the U District Business Improvement Area (UDBIA). We are governed by a Board of Directors and are overseen by the UDBIA Ratepayer Advisory Board. We help those who want to join the U District community to plug in successfully.
Cultural and Community Assets
The U District is home to a diverse array of cultural and community assets, including:
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- The U District Street Fair: An annual event held every May, showcasing local artists, crafts, and entertainment. The annual U District Street Fair is held over a weekend in May, primarily on The Ave, and is among the longest-running street fairs in the United States. The fair started in 1971 and was the first of its kind. It was begun by a local business owner and peace activist named Andy Shiga.
- The University District Farmers Market: Seattle's first farmers-only market, offering fresh produce and local goods. The University District Farmers Market is also held here. It was Seattle's first farmers-only market, starting in 1993, and it's the largest neighborhood market of its kind.
- The ASUW Experimental College: A student-run program offering non-traditional classes and fostering community engagement.
- The Blue Moon Tavern: A historic tavern that has served as a cultural hub since 1934.
- The Neptune Theatre: A historic movie palace and performing arts venue, built in 1921.
- The Grand Illusion Cinema: A volunteer-run cinema showcasing independent and arthouse films.
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