College Hill: A Historical Journey Through Providence's Academic Heart

College Hill in Providence, Rhode Island, is more than just a neighborhood; it's a living testament to American history, architectural evolution, and the enduring power of preservation. As one of the six neighborhoods comprising the city's East Side, College Hill boasts a rich tapestry of historical residential architecture, earning it designations as both a local and national historic district. This article delves into the multifaceted history of College Hill, exploring its origins, its architectural landmarks, its connection to Brown University, and its ongoing efforts to balance preservation with progress.

The Genesis of a Neighborhood: From Settlement to Scholarly Hub

The story of College Hill begins in 1636, when religious dissenter Roger Williams established the settlement of Providence Plantations near the confluence of the Moshassuck and Woonasquatucket Rivers. By 1644, this settlement had taken root around a natural spring at the base of what is now College Hill. In 1638, the settlers allotted home lots, laying the foundation for the community that would grow over the centuries.

By the time of the American Revolution, the foot of the hill was densely populated with wharves, warehouses, shops, public buildings, and residential houses, reflecting Providence's burgeoning commercial success in the shipping trade. Schooners docked at the Providence River wharfs, connecting the city to the wider world.

The Rise of Brown University and Its Impact on College Hill

A pivotal moment in College Hill's history arrived with the establishment of Rhode Island College in 1764, later renamed Brown University in 1804. The decision to locate the college on the hilltop in Providence was not without its detractors. Some questioned the wisdom of placing a large university building in a sparsely populated area, especially considering the challenges of accessing the steep hill from the waterfront.

However, the hilltop location prevailed, and work commenced on the College Edifice, now known as University Hall. There was, though, a clear model for the new building: Princeton’s Nassau Hall, built in 1756. There was a strong Princeton connection to the then-named Rhode Island College-most prominently first president James Manning, who was from Princeton’s class of 1762. When John Brown laid the cornerstone at the southwest corner of the building on May 14, it was reported he treated the audience to punch, perhaps spiked with rum. By June 28, the first floor was laid; August 2, the second floor; and on October 13, the roof. The total cost was less than $10,000. Considerable funds had been raised for the building, then known as the College Edifice, and the record shows that some donors paid their pledges by forcing enslaved people to work on it.

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The construction of University Hall, though a symbol of progress and enlightenment, also carries a complex and troubling history related to slavery. Records show that enslaved people were forced to work on its construction, a fact that remained hidden in plain sight for many years. In 2003 the Steering Committee on Slavery and Justice appointed by President Ruth Simmons found, alongside the University’s other ties to slavery, evidence of four enslaved men who had labored on the building. Only one of them was named: Pero, who was owned by Henry Paget, a Providence merchant. The committee called it “a history that has long hidden in plain sight” and its 2006 report wondered, “How do we reconcile those elements of our past that are gracious and honorable with those that provoke grief and horror?” Today, UHall hosts a standing exhibit that describes the building’s slavery era past.

The College Edifice went into use in 1771, when the school’s enrollment was about 20. Then, almost immediately, came a major interruption. As war with England approached in 1776, British and Hessian troops landed at Newport. Colonial militia gathered in Providence to shore up Patriot defenses and the College Edifice was taken over to house soldiers. After American troops decamped from the College Edifice in 1780, it was taken over by the French as a hospital for wounded soldiers. By the time the French left in 1782, the building was in terrible condition, and the school spent the next 18 years trying to get Congress to pay for repairs.

As the college grew, so did its influence on the surrounding neighborhood. In 1804, the name of the school changed to Brown University in recognition of a $5,000 gift from Nicholas Brown, a prominent Providence businessman and alumnus, class of 1786. A second building, Hope College, was opened in 1822, and soon afterward University Hall was given its current name. The building again became a barracks in the early 1840s, as soldiers poured into Providence as part of the Dorr Rebellion, an attempt by middle-class residents led by Thomas Wilson Dorr to bring broader democracy to Rhode Island. Thousands of soldiers amassed in Providence so quickly that housing couldn’t be found and Brown agreed to put them up in University Hall.

Brown's expansion, while contributing to the neighborhood's vibrancy, also presented challenges. Beginning in 1922, Brown University began expanding its property holdings as an attempt to increase on-campus housing for its growing student body. Through the middle of the 20th century, the area nearer to the waterfront and Statehouse became a working-class neighborhood. Brown's expansion coupled with urban renewal proposals catalyzed the establishment of local preservationist organizations which sought to maintain the dominance of historic structures in the neighborhood.

Architectural Treasures: Benefit Street and Beyond

College Hill is renowned for its architectural gems, particularly the 18th and 19th-century mansions that line Benefit Street, often referred to as the "Mile of History." This street, established in 1756, became home to many wealthy Providence businessmen, showcasing a range of architectural styles that reflect the changing tastes of the era.

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Among the notable residences are the John Brown House (1786), Nightingale-Brown House (1792), Edward Dexter House (1795) and Thomas P. Ives House (1803), Corliss-Carrington House (1812), Thomas F. Nearly all of the buildings situated near historic Benefit Street have been rehabilitated in some form.

Other architectural landmarks in College Hill include:

  • The First Baptist Meeting House (1775) at 75 N. Main St.
  • The First Unitarian Church (1816) at 301 Benefit St.
  • The Georgian-style John Brown House (1786).
  • Governor Henry Lippitt House (1865), a Renaissance Revival masterpiece.
  • Fleur De Lys Studio (1885), inspired by half-timbered stucco houses of Chester, England.
  • The Samuel Eddy House (1797-8) and William Holroyd House (1798), characteristic of the neighborhood.
  • The Old State House, originally built as the Colony House in 1762.

Preservation Efforts: Saving the Past for the Future

During the 1950s, many Benefit Street homes - dilapidated and subdivided into tenements - became targets for demolition. In response, the Providence Preservation Society convinced the city and federal governments to fund a demonstration project envisioning an urban renewal process with revitalization at its core. The group's 1959 report became a national landmark and model for preservation as a means of community renewal.

Providence Preservation Society published its study, College Hill: A Demonstration Study of Historic Area Renewal, in 1959; it contains an inventory of properties and develops historic-area zoning ordinance and methods for rating historic architecture and integrating historic areas into redevelopment plans. City's 1964 master plan incorporates recommendations from demonstration study. Since establishment of institutional zones (1986), colleges make public master plans, detailing property conditions, planned projects, and buildings to be sold or demolished.

Today, nearly all of the buildings on or near historic Benefit Street have been renovated and the area is home to one of the finest cohesive collections of restored 18th and early 19th century architecture in the United States.

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Balancing Preservation and Progress: Challenges and Controversies

Despite the success of preservation efforts, College Hill faces ongoing challenges in balancing its historical character with the demands of modern development. The expansion of Brown University and the allure of high rents have led to pressures for demolition and redevelopment, raising concerns about the loss of historic structures and the character of the neighborhood.

In recent years, several historic houses have been demolished to make way for new construction, sparking debate about the impact of these changes on the College Hill Historic District. Some argue that the demolitions have compromised the integrity of the district, while others contend that they are necessary for economic growth and to meet the housing needs of the university community.

One particular area of concern is the blocks bounded by Meeting, Brook, Euclid, and Thayer Streets, where several historic houses have been demolished to make way for larger structures, including student housing. Critics argue that these developments have resulted in a loss of architectural detail, green space, and overall neighborhood character.

A Vibrant Community: Culture, Commerce, and Education

Beyond its historical and architectural significance, College Hill is a vibrant community with a diverse array of cultural, commercial, and educational offerings.

Thayer Street, adjacent to Brown University, is a bustling commercial district with shops, eateries, and a cinema catering to students and young adults. The area also boasts numerous cafes, restaurants, and shops.

College Hill is also home to several cultural institutions, including:

  • The Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) Museum, with its extensive collections of art and design.
  • The Haffenreffer Museum of Anthropology, located on the campus of Brown University.
  • The John Brown House Museum, offering a glimpse into 18th-century life.
  • The Providence Athenaeum, a historic library and cultural center.
  • Music Mansion, a center of music offering lessons and musical events.
  • The First Baptist Church in America.

The neighborhood's educational institutions, particularly Brown University and RISD, contribute significantly to its intellectual and cultural atmosphere, attracting students, faculty, and visitors from around the world.

University Hall: A Symbol of Brown's History and Evolution

University Hall, originally known as the College Edifice, stands as a central landmark on the College Green and a potent symbol of Brown University's history and evolution. Its construction in the late 1700s marked a significant step in the development of the college.

Over the years, University Hall has served various purposes, including housing soldiers during the Revolutionary War and serving as a hospital for French troops. It has also undergone several renovations, reflecting changing architectural tastes and the evolving needs of the university.

In 1937, the arrival of Henry Wriston as Brown's 11th president brought big changes. Wriston was determined to improve the school in image and substance. He saw in University Hall a chance to burnish the brand of Brown with the link to colonial architecture and its connections to long-established schools like Harvard, Yale, and William & Mary. For Wriston, tying University Hall back to its colonial roots was essential to showing the world the age, wisdom, and value of Brown. At one point all the windows were taken out and the building was a brick shell.

Today, University Hall houses the offices of top Brown administrators, including the President and Provost. It is also a focal point for campus tours and a popular stop for the Providence Ghost Tour, solidifying its place as a symbol of Brown's past and present.

College Hill Today: A Dynamic Blend of History and Modernity

College Hill today is a dynamic blend of history and modernity. Its cobblestone streets, historic houses, and academic institutions coexist with modern shops, restaurants, and cultural attractions.

The neighborhood's demographics reflect its diverse character. 75.6% of College Hill residents are white while 13.6% are Asian, both well-above the citywide averages of 54.5% and 6.2% respectively. Median family income on College Hill is $121,521, well above the citywide average. About 5% of households live below the poverty line.

College Hill continues to evolve, adapting to the changing needs of its residents and institutions while striving to preserve its unique historical character.

tags: #College #Hill #Brown #history

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